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Hot Flashes News      
By Dougald MacDonald and the Climbing Magazine Team
Hot Flashes reports the world's most up-to-date climbing news. From alpine big walls to local bouldering comps Hot Flashes gives you the the most accurate report first.
  
 
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New Route on Lower 48's Biggest Rock Face
8/15/08 - Kelly Cordes and Justin Woods made a one-day ascent of the rarely climbed north face of Mt. Siyeh in Glacier National Park, completing a new route with about 3,000 feet of loose technical climbing in just 11 hours. 
 
Americans Complete ‘Astroman of Peru’
8/14/08 - Dave Anderson and Brady Robinson have free-climbed the full version of Karma de los Condores (V 5.11+R) in the Ishinca Valley of Peru, completing a 14-pitch route that tops out at around 14,500 feet.
 
Sharma, Puccio win SLC Comp
8/11/08 - Chris Sharma and Alex Puccio won the Mammut Bouldering Championships in Salt Lake City on August 9.
 
Potter "BASE Solos" The Eiger
8/08/08 - Dean Potter has made a "BASE solo" (or FreeBASE) of Deep Blue Sea (5.12+) on the north face of The Eiger, Switzerland.
 
First Descent of the Caucasus's Mt. Shkhara
8/07/08 - With the help of a ski exploration grant from the Hans Saari Memorial Fund, Jason Thompson, 27, Seth Waterfall, 33, and Tyler Jones, made the first (known) descents of Mount Shkhara (17,063 ft.), the highest peak in the Republic of Georgia, early this summer.
 
Karakoram Successes Obscured by K2 Disaster
8/05/08 - Last weekend’s disaster on K2, in which 11 climbers fell or froze to death on the upper mountain after a summit push on August 1, overshadowed some extraordinary successes in the Karakoram in recent days.
 
Disaster on K2
8/04/08 - A large number of climbers are dead or missing on K2 after an ice avalanche hit the upper mountain during a big summit push on August 1.
 
MacLeod Leads Hardest Headpoint Yet
7/31/08 - Scotland’s Dave MacLeod has led the Echo Wall on Ben Nevis, calling it “harder than Rhapsody (or anything else I’ve been on).”
 
Ondra Redpoints Legendary Swiss Multipitch
7/29/08 - The teenage Czech climber Adam Ondra has done the first redpoint ascent of WoGü (5.14), a super-sustained mini–big wall of limestone in the mountains of Switzerland.
 
Cobra Crack: Nico's Story, Ethan's Near Miss
7/28/08 - Nicolas Favresse, who made the second ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14) at Squamish on July 18, said it was “definitely the hardest trad I have ever done.”
 
Italians Rescued from Nanga Parbat
7/24/08 - Nine days after the death of Karl Unterkircher in a crevasse fall on Nanga Parbat, Unterkircher’s climbing partners, Simon Kehrer and Walter Nones, have been rescued from the mountain by helicopter.
 
The Path and Cobra Crack Repeated
7/21/08 - Two of North America’s hardest traditional rock climbs—both Sonnie Trotter routes in Canada—have been repeated in the past few days.
 
Patxi Usobiaga Onsights 5.14b/c
7/21/08 - The Basque climber Patxi Usobiaga has onsighted Home Sweet Home (5.14b/c) at Pierrot Beach, France, his second onsight harder than 5.14b.
 
Top Italian Climber Killed on Nanga Parbat
7/17/08 - Karl Unterkircher, one of the leading lights of Himalayan climbing in recent years, has been killed in a crevasse fall while attempting a new route on Nanga Parbat.
 
Rands Sends South African V12
7/16/08 - Lisa Rands sent Nutsa (V12) despite rainy weather at the sandstone mecca of Rocklands, South Africa.
 
U.S. Youth Climbing Team Chosen
7/16/08 - The 2008 U.S. Youth Climbing Team for lead and speed climbing was finalized July 13 at the Youth National Championships in Sunnyvale, California.
 
Climbers Letters Needed to Help Open Minnewaska State Park to Climbing
7/15/08 - Minnewaska State Park, which hosts numerous 50 foot crags on 200 foot quartzite cliffs – part of the greater Shawangunk Ridge (the Gunks) – is revising its Master Plan and potentially significantly expanding climbing opportunities in the Shawangunk region.
 
Newly Climbed Peak Named for Elizabeth Hawley
7/10/08 - The French ice climber François Damilano has named a newly climbed peak in Nepal after Elizabeth Hawley, the longtime chronicler of mountaineering in the Himalaya.
 
New High-Altitude 5.13 in Colorado
7/08/08 - Rob Pizem has added a second 5.13 route to the P Wall, located at around 12,000 feet near Mt. Evans in the Colorado Front Range.
 
Fatality on Mt. McKinley
7/07/08 - A climber collapsed and died on the summit of Mt. McKinley on the evening of July 4, 2008.
 
Nose Speed Record is Broken
7/02/08 - Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine have broken the speed record for climbing the Nose of El Capitan.
 
Pamela Varco Onsights Lucille Offwidth
7/01/08 - Pamela Pack Varco has onsighted Lucille (5.12+) at Vedauwoo, Wyoming, making the first female ascent and likely fifth or sixth overall ascent of the legendary offwidth and squeeze chimney.
 
Hirayama-Florine Nearly Regain Nose Record
6/30/08 - Last fall, when Alexander and Thomas Huber broke the record for speed-climbing the Nose of El Capitan, Hans Florine vowed to retake the record that he had set in 2002 with Yuji Hirayama.
 
German Team Explores Remote Baffin Walls
6/24/08 - A five-man German expedition led by well-known climbers Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper has completed an arduous expedition along the coast of northeastern Baffin Island, including the first ascent of a 2,300-foot big-wall route.
 
 
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